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Iribarren number : ウィキペディア英語版
Iribarren number

In fluid dynamics, the Iribarren number or Iribarren parameter – also known as the surf similarity parameter and breaker parameter – is a dimensionless parameter used to model several effects of (breaking) surface gravity waves on beaches and coastal structures. The parameter is named after the Spanish engineer Ramón Iribarren Cavanillas (1900–1967), who introduced it to describe the occurrence of wave breaking on sloping beaches.
For instance, the Iribarren number is used to describe breaking wave types on beaches; or wave run-up on – and reflection by – beaches, breakwaters and dikes.
== Definition ==

The Iribarren number – often denoted as ''Ir'' or ''ξ'' – is defined as:〔
:\xi = \frac\, T^2,
where ''ξ'' is the Iribarren number, ''α'' is the bed slope, ''H'' is the wave height, ''L''0 is the deep-water wavelength, ''T'' is the period and ''g'' is the gravitational acceleration. Depending on the application, different definitions of ''H'' and ''T'' are used, for example: for periodic waves the wave height ''H''0 at deep water or the breaking wave height ''H''b at the edge of the surf zone. Or, for random waves, the significant wave height ''H''s at a certain location.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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